Shingles on a small roof saddle. Roof Meets Chimney:

Building A Roof Saddle
Part 2 - Shingling

 
In This Article:

Tar paper is laid over the sheathing and shingles are nailed to each side of the saddle, then the ridge, then woven into the shingles on the existing roof.

Related Articles:
Skill Level: 3 (Intermediate) Time Taken: 3 Hours

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

 

See Part 1 - Framing the roof saddle.

Installing The Shingles:

First I removed the shingles beside the chimney. What a mess, all that tar.
Then I covered the new construction with a piece of roofing felt (tar paper)

 

I pruned back the aluminum flashing and installed a piece of "starter strip" shingle.
Then I installed a full depth shingle and a piece of step flashing.

 

Another row of shingles and another piece of step flashing. It is very difficult for water to get behind this flashing.
The third row of shingles took me to the back edge of the chimney. The step flashing had to be cut short to fit under the old chimney counter-flashing.

 

I made a piece of flashing that went around the corner. I used a concrete block to hold the flashing to the chimney, after squirting some tar behind it.
This will be a "woven" valley, meaning that the shingles from different planes will over lap each other.

 

The first shingle on the saddle has been installed.
The next shingle, from the main roof, over laps the previous shingle. Also, a step flashing was installed next to the chimney.

 

Another shingle added to the saddle.
Another shingle added to the main roof. This pattern of overlapping in the valley is called a "woven" valley.

 

The top piece of step flashing had to be split in order to fit.
No more shingles needed on the saddle; the ridge will be covered with single-tab ridge shingles. The next main roof shingle was laid out to see how it would fit.

After this, I spent some time shingling the other side of the saddle.  The sun went down during that time, so the remaining photos were taken at night.

The top shingle on the second side is visible. It just covers the ridge.
The next step was to place the first full shingle that crosses over the ridge. 

 

This "cross-over" shingle has to be split, or it will not lay flat. A slit was cut part way through, from the top.  This slit runs in line with the valley center-line.
The next shingle in the row was cut to length.

 

The slit was filled with roofing tar.  I usually use a lot of roofing tar to fill any gaps around the valley areas. I can't tell how well insulated and ventilated this house is, so there could be a problem with ice dams in the winter. When ice forms near the edge of the roof, melting snow can find it's way under shingles, because it can't escape downhill.

I have seen enormous problems with ice dams forming around chimneys, because some chimneys give off a lot of heat, especially masonry chimneys with fireplaces or less-than-high-efficiency furnaces.

 

Note: No further shingles can be installed until the ridge is capped.

The ridge is capped with single tab shingles, cut from three-tab shingles. (I use tin snips.) The cap shingles are installed from the chimney towards the main roof.

 

The last cap shingle had to be split, so it would lay against the old roof.

Note how the black tar strips almost line up with the other shingles. The next row of shingles will cover this junction nicely.

From this point on, the task is a straightforward matter of installing shingles to fill in the area where they were removed at the beginning of this project.

The next day I took some better pictures. The shingles will lay more flatly to the roof after they go through a warm summer.

 

Completing The Flashing: 

First I applied a bead of roofing tar way down deep behind the flashing, being careful not to bend the metal too much.

Then I used silicone caulking to seal the top of the step flashing against the chimney. I would have used clear silicone, but I had run out, so I used what I had, which was black. The color didn't matter here because this area can only be seen while standing on the roof.

View an article that shows how I remedied the flashing on the sides of the chimney.

 

 

Tools Used:

  • Basic Carpentry Tools
  • Pry Bars
  • Tin Snips

Materials Used:

  • Roofing Felt (Tar Paper)
  • Shingles, 3-Tab
  • Roofing Nails, 1¼"
  • Roofing Tar
  • Silicone

 

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Copyright © 1999, 2005  HammerZone.com

Written December 28, 1999
Revised January 15, 2005