Includes some diagrams to illustrate how window and door openings are typically built.
This old house had odd framing, but the methods described here should apply to most houses.
While remodeling one room at a time, we decided to add a closet to an already-remodeled bedroom. This meant cutting a hole in the veneer-plaster painted and finished wall.
The owner of this unfinished utility building wanted to create a family room, so we cut a 6-foot opening in the wall to install a slider door. The job required installing a big double 2z12 header while supporting the roof trusses.
Framing a 2x4 wall is easy. The tricky part is anchoring the new wall to the existing framing.
The original beam had been replaced years earlier, but it was too small and the porch roof had developed a sag. So we supported the structure and installed a bigger beam, and returned the trim to the original style.
This old garage didn't have pressure-treated sill plates or bottom plates, so after many decades the wood absorbed moisture and rotted. I jacked up the garage and removed the old wood, then replaced it with new treated lumber.
The techniques shown here may also apply to a house built on a slab, or even a house built on a basement.
This old garage had developed a serious lean, so I bolted some automotive tow hooks to opposite corners and used a winch to pull it straight.
The upstairs floors in this 1907 farmhouse had developed a sag and would bounce badly when somebody walked across the room.
By doubling-up the floor joists we reduced these problems dramatically.
Some hydraulic jacks and heavy wood beams allowed us to lift the second floor slightly, then the joist sisters and other structural members held the floor level and rock-solid.
While raising the sagging floor, we installed long studs that connected the second-floor joists to a beam built in the attic. Rock solid floor accomplished.
A truck bumped into this wall and broke some of the framing. I lifted up the roof and replaced some damaged studs.
It only took a few minutes to build the forms for a 16"x16" poured concrete footing. With an L-shaped anchor bolt and metal post bracket, this footing will resist uplifting forces (from wind) and should never settle.
A hole is cut in the basement floor and concrete poured to make a solid footing for metal columns that support the weight of the house.
When the basement of this newer house had a leak, and the cement block foundation had no cracks, I figured the problem was related to the way the front yard sloped towards the house.
It turned out that getting the right slope to the dirt made a big difference.