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A basic medicine cabinet is installed by locating the wall studs and driving screws through the back of the cabinet into the studs.
The trick to installing any 2-piece toilet paper holder is to get the proper spacing between the 2 brackets.
It helps to locate one of the towel bar brackets directly over a stud, and if the other bracket doesn't fall on a stud, then using the right drywall anchors can make all the difference.
Sometimes you get lucky and the shower rod brackets fall directly over a stud. Otherwise, drywall anchors must be used.
When there is always a foul smell in the bathroom, or water leaks out around the base of the toilet, it's time to replace the seal.
There are a few different types of fill valves out there, but they all operate on the same principle: the rising water lifts a float which closes a valve to stop the flow of water into the toilet tank. This time the fix was very easy.
The other reason a toilet may run constantly is a leaky flush valve, or flapper valve. These rubber parts wear out eventually and need to be replaced. No problem.
Newer toilets often use a plastic lever to lift the flush valve. All too often the plastic lever just snaps and you can't flush.
Built-in tub stoppers can be quite frustrating to adjust properly. It doesn't help that you can't see anything.
Older tub faucets often have plain rubber washers to stop the flow of water. But the washers get mashed down over time and need to be replaced.
This Delta tub/shower faucet employs a metal disk that rides over two rubber seals to allow water to flow. Eventually the seals wear out and water escapes, causing a dripping faucet.
Replacing the seals is easy and requires 2 screwdrivers and a big pair of pliers.
Two vanity cabinets are screwed together so the front faces align perfectly, then holes are drilled for the pipes and the cabinets are fastened to the wall.
The hole is laid out on the countertop, then cut out with a jig saw. The sink is mounted to the counter and held with adhesive caulk, then the laminate counter is fastened to the vanity cabinet.
We installed the vanity in the corner of the bathroom and mounted the faucet on the cultured marble sink.
After the vanity top was glued to the cabinet, we connected the drain and supply pipes.
Since the toilet drain opening was going to land very close to a floor joist, we used an offset toilet flange to avoid needing to cut the framing.
A wax bowl ring is applied to the bottom of the bowl, then the bowl is secured to the toilet flange. Next the tank is attached to the bowl and leveled.
Flexible toilet supply hoses are easy to install but less durable. I prefer using chrome-plated copper tubing, which requires some careful bending.
A new toilet seat is installed by securing the plastic fasteners and making sure the seat doesn't wiggle.
The original plumbing in this old house was so messed up, there wasn't even a shower head over the bath tub. And the tub faucet was installed below the top level of the tub, which is a code violation.
The walls were opened up during remodeling, so plumbing in a new shower valve was just a matter of cutting copper pipe and soldering the fittings without burning down the house.
The outline of the base is laid out on the floor and a hole is cut for the drain. Cement board is installed under the base and the base is glued to the floor and screwed to the wall studs.
The shower surround is glued to the wall, the shower faucet trim is installed and the joints are caulked with silicone.
The metal track is installed on the base and walls, and the glass panels are installed, followed by the door.
Since we had plenty of room in the attic, we waited until the drywall was hung before installing this fan. We just cut a hole in the ceiling and fastened the fan to the joists.
The hardest part of running a 4-inch exhaust duct is cutting the hole in the wall. No problem if you've got a big drill and 4-inch hole saw, otherwise a ring of small holes can be drilled and the cut finished with a reciprocating saw.